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Snow Blower Maintenance
Quick answer: Snow blower maintenance means a pre-season check, quick care after each use and proper end-of-season storage. Check oil, fuel, spark plug, belts, shear pins, scraper bar, skid shoes, tyres and controls. Battery and electric machines need inspection of paddles, cords or packs. Always disconnect power or remove the key before working on the machine.
Pre-season checklist
- Read the manual sections on maintenance.
- Change oil if not done at the end of last season.
- Inspect spark plug.
- Check belts for cracks and tension.
- Check shear pins and spares.
- Inspect scraper bar and skid shoes.
- Check tyre pressure.
- Test controls and safety bail.
- Charge batteries.
After each use
Let the engine run briefly to clear snow from the housing, then turn it off. Brush off snow and ice to stop controls freezing. Store in a place where melting snow will drain away.
Mid-season
Check oil level on gas engines, top up fuel with fresh stabilised fuel, and check paddles or scraper for wear.
End-of-season
Follow the manual for fuel storage, change oil, clean the machine, touch up chipped paint, lubricate as specified and store dry. Remove battery packs and store them as the maker recommends.
| Task | Gas | Battery | Corded |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oil | Yes | No | No |
| Fuel care | Yes | No | No |
| Belts | Often | Some | Some |
| Paddles/scraper | Yes | Yes | Yes |
| Packs/cord | No | Yes | Cord |
Safety while working
Remove the key, disconnect spark plug wire on gas, remove packs on battery, or unplug corded models. Wait for parts to stop. Wear gloves.
When to call a technician
Carburettor rebuilds, transmission problems or electrical faults are best left to a qualified technician.
Why a routine helps
Snow blowers sit idle for months then face harsh conditions on short notice. A predictable routine catches small problems such as a frayed belt or low tyre before a big storm exposes them. It also keeps warranty claims straightforward, since many warranties expect reasonable care.
Belt inspection
With the machine disabled, remove the belt cover and look for cracks, glazing, fraying or stretching. A belt that slips under load can make the auger stall in heavy snow. Replacement belts should match the part number in the manual. Some belts need tension adjustments after replacement.
Spark plug care
Remove the plug with a plug socket, look at the electrode, and replace it if worn, fouled or cracked. Check the gap with a feeler gauge against the specification. A fresh plug costs little and helps cold starts.
Scraper bar and skid shoes
The scraper bar is a wear part bolted along the bottom of the housing. When it wears thin, flip or replace it so the housing itself is not damaged. Skid shoes also wear; replace them when thin and adjust both sides evenly.
Paddles on single-stage
Single-stage paddles wear as they contact the ground. When they no longer reach the surface, the machine leaves a layer of snow and may scuff the housing. Replace them as a set.
Chute and controls
Lubricate chute rotation gears if specified. Check cables for fraying and adjust tension so controls engage fully. Make sure the operator presence controls stop the auger and drive when released.
Drive system
On friction-disc drives, inspect the rubber disc for wear and keep it dry. Hydrostatic drives need less attention but follow manual checks. Tracks need correct tension.
Fuel system
Use fresh fuel, keep the cap sealed, and replace fuel lines that are cracked. A fuel filter, if fitted, should be changed per the manual.
Electrical checks
On battery models, inspect contacts for corrosion and keep them clean and dry. On electric start gas models, inspect the cord and plug. Check lights.
Documenting work
Keep receipts and a log. It helps resale and warranty claims.
Before each storm
Check the oil level on gas machines, top up fresh fuel, look for loose bolts and check that the chute rotates freely. For battery machines, make sure packs are charged and stored warm. Clear any ice from the auger housing left from the last use.
During the season
Inspect shear pins, scraper bar and skid shoes regularly. Tighten loose belts or have a shop adjust them. Wipe down the machine after use to reduce rust, and let it dry before closing the garage door to limit condensation.
Annual service
A yearly or every-other-year tune-up by a shop can include an oil change, a new spark plug, carburettor cleaning, belt inspection and lubrication of moving parts. Many owners do these steps themselves following the manual.
Lubrication
Grease fittings on two-stage augers and the chute rotation gear need periodic lubrication as listed in the manual.
Belts
Drive and auger belts stretch and crack over time. Slipping, squealing or weak throwing can mean a worn belt. Replace with the part number in the manual.
Spark plug and air system
Replace the spark plug as scheduled and keep the engine cooling fins and air intake clear.
Battery machines
Keep contacts clean and dry, store packs indoors and check paddles and scraper bars for wear.
Scraper bar and skid shoes
The scraper bar and skid shoes contact the surface and wear down. Flip or replace them when worn so the housing does not scrape. Uneven wear can tilt the housing and leave strips of snow.
Tyre pressure
Check tyre pressure on two-stage machines before the season; uneven pressure makes the machine pull to one side. Inflate to the value on the tyre sidewall or in the manual.
Chute and deflector
Lubricate the chute rotation and deflector pivot so they move freely in cold weather. A stiff chute often just needs cleaning and a light spray of a lubricant suited to low temperatures.
Worked example
Illustrative examples (2026-10-29), not quotes or guarantees.
Pre-season on a 5-year-old two-stage: oil change, new plug, belt inspection (minor cracking, replaced), two spare shear pins bought, tyres inflated to the sidewall rating. About an hour.
FAQ
How often should I change oil?
As the manual specifies.
Do battery blowers need maintenance?
Yes, inspection and pack care.
Should I drain fuel?
Follow your manual's instruction.